Woman have love-hate relationships with their hair. Most of us agree this is one of the first things we notice about others. The Victorians referred to women's long hair as their "crowning glory" because it was considered an important feature of female beauty. So these women took great care with their hair to keep it looking shiny. Things haven't changed--we spend big bucks on getting out hair to look good. We also worry constantly about how our hair looks; oh, the agonies of a Bad Hair Day! Our hair takes a lot of abuse and sometimes it decides to reward us by looking sleek and sexy, or bouncy and beautiful. Here are some tips for common hair problems and some natural, non-damaging solutions. Beautiful hair is healthy hair, and healthy hair starts with a healthy scalp, so we'll talk about that, too.

How Abused is Your Hair?

Are you plagued by split ends or frizz? Limp hair, poufy hair? Sometimes simply changing your routine or switching products can make an enormous difference. Ask yourself how many of the following items you use and how often:

  • Blow dryer
  • Curling iron
  • Curling iron
  • Hot rollers
  • Crimping iron
  • Ponytail elastics
  • Commercial hair dye–salon
  • Commercial hair dye–at home
  • Henna
  • Mousse/foam
  • Peroxide/bleach hair color
  • Pomade
  • Styling or "hold" gel
  • Dandruff shampoo
   

It might surprise you to know that most of the above products or appliances are very harmful to your hair. The hair that grows out of your hair is technically "dead" and so once it is damaged, it cannot be repaired. Using blow dryers or other heated appliances is the single most damaging thing you can do to your hair, so keep this to a minimum. Get a good cut that you can style by letting it air dry. Once ends split or break, there is simply no way to fix them despite what some labels or commercials may tell you. But good products can coat it and protect it from further damage, and can also give the illusion of shine and lustre. So don't believe the hype of products that say they "repair" hair, but do search for products that help your hair look shiny and healthy! Some hair care products contain silicone which can help impart a healthy gleam. But over time, this can build up on the hair and make it look dull, and also can make your hair more "porous" or prone to damage. So check out the ingredients and try to avoid shampoos or conditioners or styling products with silicone.

Color
So what ingredients should you look for in coloring products? Some natural ingredients that are good for hair and scalp include jojoba oil, olive oil, tea tree oil, chamomile infusion, and most natural botanical ingredients like wild cherry bark or marigold/calendula infusion. You can also make your own natural treatments at home. Some of us have tried lemon juice for blonde highlights, or apple cider vinegar as a rinse to bring out red highlights. Chamomile tea can be a great rinse for blonde hair, too. You might want to wait until your bleached hair grows out a bit before switching to natural products. Lemon and chamomile have a much milder effect than bleach, but are much better for your hair! Bleach makes your hair very porous and fragile, and you run the risk of having it discolored by chlorine or other chemicals in water.

The best product for red highlights in brown hair is henna, which is a powdered plant material that is all natural. It comes in different shades or red, and in colors for black and brown hair, too. Henna is difficult to use until you get the hang of it. One of my favorite henna products is "Caca" which is available from Lush ( www.lush.com ). It rinses out better than other ones I have tried. You can add black coffee, or red wine to henna to enrich the color. I also add olive oil for an extra conditioning boost. Henna has a conditioning effect on hair so it is the one hair color product which will leave your hair better off than when you started! The longer you leave it on, the more dramatic the color–and it;s great for providing a boost to your hair, bringing out red and auburn highlights and lending it loads of shine. You can also get "neutral" henna which does not dye your hair red but does make it shinier and healthier.

There are hair dyes with a vegetable base which do not damage hair. They come in crazy colors sometimes (like those made by Manic Panic) but you can get them in more subtle, natural colors as well. As always, do a "strand test" to see how your hair takes the color before you apply it all over. These colors wash out relatively quickly, too.   

Split Ends
No one likes frizzies. Some types of hair are very prone to them, and sometimes our own health or habits make our hair more prone to breakage. Be sure to eat enough protein! This helps keep your hair strong. Some women think that not washing their hair as often prevent ssplit ends, but this may not be true: applying shampoo and conditioners tends to make styling, combing or brushing your hair easier. Unwashed hair does have this protective layer, so everyday brushing can cause more breakage. So do your hair a favor and wash it often! It will look and behave better.

The other "wives tale" about split ends says you need to trim them frequently. Yes, this helps keep your hair looking neater but it won't eliminate split ends. Your best bet is to find the best shampoo and conditioner combination for your hair. I have long wavy thick but fine (meaning there's lots of it but the individual strands are thin) hair which has an unfortunate tendency to split, no matter how "nice" I am to it! I find the combination of using a good scalp-cleansing shampoo with a rich conditioner works best for me. But I also use moisturizing shampoos from time to time. I also might add a bit of extra "leave-in" conditioner on the ends–this adds an extra protective layer and added shine. This is good for anyone with hair longer than shoulder length–shorter hair can usually get by with just a rinse-out conditioner. Here is a list of my favorite conditioning products that really seem to minimize my split ends and make my hair look its best:

Olive oil! (Apply it to ends of unwashed hair and leave on for 20 minutes. It lasts through 2 shampoos and does leave a slightly oily residue, so do it on a weekend. The benefits last for days though!)
Rinse-out conditioners:         
Retread conditioner by Lush
Back to Basics Raspberry Almond conditioner
Aussie Three-Minute Miracle conditioner
KMS Intensive Reconstructor

Leave-in conditioners:
Aveda Elixir
The Body Shop Hemp Conditioner
Coolaulin by Lush

Dandruff/scalp issues
Okay, no one likes to talk about this but most of us have suffered from it at some point. The itching, the flakes falling on our black clothes, what a nuisance! But resarch shows most women get this from time to time. This problem gets worse in winter for some of us who live in cold areas, because the indoor heat dries out our skin and affects sebum production in the scalp (sebum is the oily secretion that protects our skin but also can clog pores).There are two types of scalp conditions that cause dandruff: oily or dry. One can masquerade as the other; for example, an oily scalp may shed dry flakes if the pores are clogged. Some people get a more serious condition related to psoriasis, and you should see a dermatologist for this. But simply shifting your hair care routine can help this annoying problem.

The key is to clean the scalp gently but thoroughly. Some of the special dandruff shampoos available at the drug store are very harsh and can dry the hair out. Plus they smell like medicine! One ingredient which seems to work great on dandruff-prone scalps is tea tree oil. You can get a bottle of it and add a drop or two to your regular shampoo when you use, it, or get one of the many tree shampoos on the market: Paul Mitchell's tea tree shampoo is a good one. Lush makes a shower gel called "Narcotick" which doubles as a great shampoo; this also contains rosemary essential oil, which is a great scalp rejuvenator. Also, shampoos made with citrus ingredients help cleanse the scalp thoroughly and rebalance its acidity so the hair won't get dried out. Garnier Fructis is one of these, or "I Love Juicy" from Lush. It's also a good idea to use a cleansing shampoo designed to remove layers of styling product build-up once in a while. Neutrogena's Gentle Everyday cleansing shampoo is great for this. Peppermint shampoos are also great for scalp stimulation and can cut down on dandruff, so try Dr. Bronner's, a very gentle, all-natural shampoo and body soap. Another plus: all these products smell great!

The next step to treating this problem is to avoid clogging the pores of the scalp with conditioners or styling products. While you wait for your scalp to clear, apply conditioner only to ends of hair, and ease off on the styling gels for a while. Once your dandruff has lessened, keep up your routine of shampooing with a scalp-cleansing shampoo and you should be able to use your regular styling products as usual. Switching to a new hair care product sometimes tales a few days before your hair gets used to it, so be patient and give it time!

Okay, Ready for Sexy Hair?
We all want our hair to look sexy. For some that means long curly locks. For some it's short and spiky. Some like layers, some like braids. Some women change their hairstyle almost daily! Once you've made your hair as healthy as it can be by using the right products, there are some special things you can do to enhance your most beautiful feature.

Style
What's sexy? Looking like you're not trying too hard. It's hard to feel at ease when you're worried your hair is going to droop at any moment. So when you want to look sexy, go with a low maintenance look.Braiding your hair while it's damp, then brushing it out after it dries will give you soft, shimmery ripples. Brushing your hair lightly and gathering it into a loose ponytail, leaving a few tendrils to float on your neck, is also a great casual, feminine look. The nape of the neck is one of the sexiest parts of a woman's body, so keep that in mind when styling your hair.Wrap a bit of fabric around the ponytail, or a ribbon or small scarf. If you usually wear your hair pulled back, try wearing it down and loose--this gives you a more relaxed, sensual look.You can also put in two or three slender braids to frame your face, a nice "Celtic" look that gives some added detail.

Scent
Yes, scenting your hair! I know, you already use scented shampoos. But if your shampoo or conditioner do not leave a lingering scent you can help it along a bit. You can spray perfume into your hair but this can be a bit of overkill. One easy and effective method is to do a final rinse with a few drops of essential oil in the water; just dunk your head in a basin of warm water that you've added a few drops of your favorite essential oil to. These are good for your hair, too. Try any of the following: patchouli (earthy), frankincense (lingering, heady), sweet orange (fruity and light), peru balsam (sweet and woody, feminine), ylang ylang (sensual floral), clary sage (herby and green). You can also make an infusion with herbs; just like making tea! Try this with hair-helping herbs like rosemary, chamomile, rose hips, or nettles.

Glitter
Maybe you think body glitter or glittery eye shadow is passe or too juvenile for you. But a touch of glitter in the hair is a subtle way to add some extra glamour and mystery to your look. There's several ways to do this. Glitter gel is the easiest to apply, but be careful not to put too much in one spot or it will get sticky and stiff. If you apply it to just a few strands at a time, you can avoid any clumping. Loose glitters work, too. Just sprinkle them on a little at a time until you get the amount you want, and if you're going dancing, shake your head a bit to make sure it won't all fall out during your first tango! You can use finer glitter for a subtle shimmer, or larger-sized glitter for a more festive look. These come in many colors and many price ranges–finer, more expensive glitters are usually for use on the face. So, what color to use? The obvious thing to do is to match your outfit, but try doing the unexpected, too. If your dress is red, try pink or purple hair glitter. You can also apply more than one color; blue at your temples and green in your bangs, for example. With black, silver glitter on dark hair will look great. Try gold glitter or copper with red or blonde hair. If you have sexy silver hair, silver or gold will both look fabulous. Blue or green glitter looks great on silver or black hair; pinks and reds look good on any hair color. 

Flowers
Fresh flowers are a popular accessory now, and nothing looks sexier in your hair than a fresh flower. But subtlety is the key! One large bloom tucked behind your ear (fasten with a bobby pin), or a few small rosebuds tucked into your braids or chignon–be sure not to overdo it or you'll look like a flower child! Get something that won't wilt too quickly. Rosebuds are better than open roses. Daisies or mums are hardy and hold their shape, as do daylilies and gardenias. This is an accessory for a special occasion (a wedding, a ball, a big party), day or night, or when you want to add a dash of humor and individuality to your look. Evergreen plants like ivy can look great, too, but again, don't overdo it or you'll like you're dressed for a costume party. Wearing a white linen suit? Tuck a bright red hibiscus into your hair. A slinky black dress? Try a brightly-colored Gerber daisy. A feminine floral print skirt? Be subtle: tiny rosebuds or a bit of ivy are the way to go.


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